Two months ago I drove across the Mississippi Coast to see what Hurricane Katrina had wrought. Here we are almost a year later and for about a quarter of a mile along the coast it looks like there was some sort of nuclear explosion.
Where there were once thriving industry there are now empty foundations, stairs that go to nowhere, and most eerily, trash and debris hang in the trees, left there as the storm surge pulled much of Mississippi's coast back into the Gulf as it subsided.
The mighty were vanquished, just as were the small.
Seawitch, a casual pilgrim passing through, was curious about my impressions of Gulfport, Mississippi. I did spend the night in Gulfport. My impressions of Gulfport were not that favorable. First, I got there tired. Second, we actually had to go the at least three places to find a vacancy. Thirdly and finally, our hotel (the Marriott) didn't have a bar and I had to cross the busiest, most dangerous highway in the world to get to the chain-restaurant across the street to have a drink. So scary was that experience, that I walked a quarter of a mile to an intersection with a traffic light to cross back over. Usually the two martinis would have emboldened me and I would have darted across that dangerous strip of highway. Usually. Maybe it's just that every other vehicle on the road in Gulfport was a huge SUV or 4-wheel, 4-door pick-up. Could also be that the people there drive like maniacs, all in a hurry, all with some sort of chip on their shoulder about pedestrians. Maybe the culture there just doesn't trust people on foot. I swear they were aiming at me when I crossed the street, with and without the light.
Or it could have been that I was tired, cranky, and annoyed at everything and everybody I encountered. Maybe the shoulder that had the chip was mine. Could of been.
There seemed to be a disconnect between the devastation on the beach and Gulfport two miles inland. What I saw in Gulfport was a lot of money being spent. There were plenty of construction projects, big and small, public and private. I saw more new vehicles than clunkers, so a lot of people are working.
As far as the few people I actually spoke to while there, Mississippians have a very pleasant public face. "Hi, how you doin'? Where y'all from?" seems to be the most natural and common greeting. You got the impression they really did want to know how you were doing and where you were from. They don't, of course, but they're real polite about it.
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